Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
